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Post by Deleted on Jan 29, 2007 23:34:58 GMT -5
Ok, as everyone pretty much knows (at least from my lack of avatar) I don't have a suit of armor yet...I am in the process of making a standard EP II clone (white for now)/standard airborne (no colors for now either) and a GM...I recently ordered and received the DC-15s from PA and his instructions say to wipe the gun down ("clean" it) with acetone to take off the release (or whatever it is, sorry, I don't have my instructions in front of me right now) before I do anything else...Well, I bought one of the GM chests from mrlaws awhile ago, and I was just thinking: do I have to do anything like that to the chest plate or ANY polystyrene or ABS armor before working on them?
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Post by admin on Jan 29, 2007 23:52:42 GMT -5
No. The cleaning you're having to do is because it's a resin prop, and there may be "mold release" residue on the parts. This also takes away any oils and unwanted particles that can inhibit painting.
Vacuum-formed parts are just sheets of plastic heated up, and formed with a vacuum over a mold. There is no mold-release involved. You would probably want to take some 300-400 grit sandpaper to it though, just to start the painting process. But there are no chemicals you'd need to clean off. That goes for your Ep2 clone armor parts and Airborne armor parts to.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 29, 2007 23:55:03 GMT -5
one other thing here that I have meaning to ask someone...I know that the GM we paint (obviously because of the red), but with standard WHITE clones (or storms for that matter) , do you paint them white or do you leave the original styrene white as is?
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Post by admin on Jan 30, 2007 0:28:58 GMT -5
I would paint it. It may sound weird, but do paint it. You'll want to have a nice gray primer, then a layer of black, then perhaps a layer of silver, and then your white (a few layers). unpainted armor tends to look a little translucent in some areas (not really, but when compared to painted, painted is FAR superior).
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Post by Deleted on Jan 30, 2007 6:52:56 GMT -5
really? That many layers? that's surprising.
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Post by admin on Jan 30, 2007 9:02:55 GMT -5
It helps with the natural weathering. If you had all your weathering done on just one layer of paint, and then bumped against a hard edged, you'd have a nice big chuck on ugly ABS plastic showing among a beautiful weathering job. But if you had those layers, it'd only knock off so many, and you'd have a realistic, natural weathering job to back you up if you ever bumped up against something.
Plus, it's just a certain look you'll instantly recognize when it's all done. You'll certainly be proud of it.
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Post by Anrev on Jan 30, 2007 13:33:25 GMT -5
Far be it from me to disagree with the boss, But yes you DO need to clean the ABS parts pryer to painting. Heres why. 90% of any type of painting is prep work. You need to get all the oils from your (and other ppls) hands off. And any other dirt or oils it may have come in contact with. My point is you cant know for sure whats come in contact with it. The reason for this is that oils will not allow the paint to adhere properly and will leave "fish eyes". These are small spots where the paint is missing or very thin where you can see the surface underneath it. And Yes sanding with a light grit of paper is a good idea. It increases the surface area of the part allowing the paint to adhere better. But then you need to clean it off again. Clean it with ISOPROPYL alcohol, making sure NOT to touch it again. Then you can paint it. There are alot of paints out there that claim "no need to use primer". Ive used them too. And except for Krylon Fusion, they all need primer.
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Post by admin on Jan 30, 2007 14:47:35 GMT -5
Yeah don't fall for the "No primer" crap. They all need primer.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 30, 2007 18:46:51 GMT -5
well, that's good to know...But on the weathering note, I am really not that into weathering...I may change my mind once I get the armor going or finished, but I really don't think so...I like the look of the clean armored clones...I mean, you guys all do nice jobs on your weathering, and I do agree that it looks cool, but I just don't know if it's for me...I could use that for my 53rd fiction stuff (I have been writing it for some time...I just love that sort of stuff) and say that my "character" (Sci) is just a clean freak and cleans "his" (my) armor after every battle...then I have an excuse not to weather it, or at least very minimally...
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Post by ianl on Jan 30, 2007 20:51:17 GMT -5
Weathering has it's benefits too. Smudge yourpaint? Trim too much off? Weathering can hide that.
I would say unless you're stationed on Kamino, you will be a dirty clone.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 30, 2007 23:52:05 GMT -5
I just love the look of a pure white clone...Something awe-inspiring about it...I am not sure yet (which is fine since my finishing is AWHILE away, so I have time to think about it)...
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Post by Anrev on Jan 31, 2007 13:15:23 GMT -5
Or we could just say your the FNG.....
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2007 18:05:07 GMT -5
the what? I don't know what that is...
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Post by Anrev on Feb 1, 2007 5:44:54 GMT -5
FNG = F***ing New Guy. Meaning you havnt been around long enough to have gotten dirty yet.
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Post by admin on Feb 1, 2007 22:55:58 GMT -5
Hah. A clean clone is a dead clone. I know the two have no real relation to them, so disregard.  |
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