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Post by dukenukem on Jan 24, 2011 19:38:46 GMT -5
Is there a good way to scratch build these parts? Could i do something like make a shape from foam and fit the sintra around it, or is there a better way to go about this?
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Post by il-matic (Lloyd M.) on Jan 25, 2011 2:04:00 GMT -5
I would buy stuff that's already made, man. That's what I have been doing, purchasing certain parts from certain prop makers. I would go at my own pace, determined by my budget.
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Post by dukenukem on Jan 25, 2011 17:30:26 GMT -5
Well I'd like to make as much of this as I can, I'm just that way. Like things better when I put the work in. But if it turns out to be impossible then I'll do that.
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Post by dukenukem on Jan 25, 2011 18:09:39 GMT -5
Or here's an idea: Learn how to make molds? I saw a post by snowtrooper where he made a chest from foam and made a mold around it. Obviously learn to walk before you run and do smaller parts but just seeing if the idea is feasible.
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Post by Tango Fett on Jan 26, 2011 8:38:57 GMT -5
For what I saw from his pictures, Snowflake made his chest plate without using a mold. This is another alternative too. It looks like he made some cuts in the rounded top of the central part of the chest to obtain a better angle and then just bending the sintra with heat. I thought of going this way but I've learned that the better results with sintra are obtained using molds. There is also another guy in Germany who built two approved GMs and didn't use a mold either, just heat and bending, and both in Snowflake's and this guy's chests, some Bondo. Look for that build picture sequence through his link in the 501st. This is the website www.imperial-armory.com. I think he is also Rebel Legion approved. When I was thinking on going without a mold, I could not imagine how to make the second direction bend. For example, if you first bend the vertical shape, almost like a half cylinder, how would you bend after that the upper part of the chest, the one that ends in the neck, because the board would be bended in one direction and then in another, and I've learned that you won't get good results because I think you could get a big vertical wrinkle. A way to avoid that would be to make a vertical V cut to avoid the wrinkle, but this is pure speculation since I haven't tried this method. When considering going this way, I also thought of using some wood strips on the edges of the board and attach some straps to them and tense the straps while heating. By using the wood the bending and tension would be distributed more equal or smooth along the whole board.
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Post by dukenukem on Jan 26, 2011 12:16:08 GMT -5
Or could you just cut out where the flat part is and then after making the rest of the chest plate simply glue it in (or some other way to attach it)?
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Post by Tango Fett on Jan 26, 2011 12:37:32 GMT -5
Yes you could do that, and it would be better to obtain sharper edges, but it wouldn't fix the issue of performing the "second" stage bend which is the upper part of the chest. This is pure speculation as I said before, but if I'd go with this option, I'd first bend the cylindrical vertical shape as in the images above, and after that, I'd try to bend the upper more horizontal part, and that is what I don't think can be easily done.
If you are not in a hurry you could try wait for my test with the foam mold. I hope I can move forward this next weekend. I'm using high density foam and I plan to add some layers of plaster to the foam to make it stronger and smoother.
If I can obtain a decent shape and the sintra method fails, I also plain to make it in fiberglass, directly over the mold or even making a fiberglass negative mold if the shape is good enough it worth it.
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Post by dukenukem on Jan 26, 2011 13:56:46 GMT -5
Yeah I can wait (seeing as I don't have my sintra yet). Better to take it slow and do it right then rush and waste money.
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Post by Tango Fett on Jan 26, 2011 15:21:34 GMT -5
One thing you could while you wait for the sintra that is really time demanding is to start with the patterns in paper or cardboard. That took me a lot of time. You could start with that and try them on yourself. Once they are ok you put them over the sintra and do the cuts.
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Post by dukenukem on Jan 26, 2011 23:38:02 GMT -5
There's a guy in Colombia who's scratch building a suit starting with card stock. The chest on a GM doesn't seem as complicated as a regular clone, but then again I would not know because I haven't made one! But if you know how to do resin molding, this could work. forum.clonetroopers.net/index.php?showtopic=12835Impressive as heck.
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Post by boba on Jan 27, 2011 4:25:30 GMT -5
there are a some amazing builds going on out there so you can pick what way you want to go bro.. it all looks like fun so enjoy it
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Post by dukenukem on Jan 28, 2011 1:00:31 GMT -5
I just made a cardboard "mold" if you will for the chest, sort of like snowflake did in his sintra armor thread. However, I may simply use it as a guide to make a chest out of foam. Don't know yet. I'll post pictures of it tomorrow.
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Post by Tango Fett on Jan 28, 2011 9:22:11 GMT -5
That is great!!. Were you able to get the correct curved shape?. Because although I'm going with the foam mold, I'm still thinking of the option of simply bending the sintra to save time and effort. I think that by performing that V cut below the neck, the bending of the top of the chest would be easier, and what I realized yesterday is that the cowl and weathering could cover any imperfection that may be left by the cut and the bondo and all that. Have you've been able to see the build on www.imperial-armory.com/marines.php?
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Post by dukenukem on Jan 28, 2011 11:47:31 GMT -5
I sort of just shaped and taped the cardboard, but I think that if you made incisions where it starts to curve that could work. I'm gonna upload the pictures now.
And wow that guy has a really good idea for that! If mine doesn't work out I might try that.
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Post by dukenukem on Jan 28, 2011 12:30:56 GMT -5
s608.photobucket.com/albums/tt162/kriegesmarine/I have several pictures of the chest up. It looks rough yes, but it should serve it's purpose (it's a mold, it's supposed to be ugly!). I'll probably reinforce it so that I can mold it easier. Any thoughts? The neck opening looks a little wide I think. Also the first pic looks very uneven, but the thing was actually starting to fall off because the only way to hold it on was to squeeze my arms together
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