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Post by Deleted on Jan 29, 2007 18:06:24 GMT -5
I just got my kit today from PA...I have to say incase anyone else noticed...That is the FASTEST turn-around time on an order I have EVER seen...The kit is sweet! I am going to assemble it tonight...I am sorry that I have no pics (would be nice for reference) but I just got home and had to stop to scream for joy and cream my pants...When I assemble it I will put one or two pics up...I will also do one that is finished (painted, etc.) because it seems that no one has put one up yet...
On another note, I think the scale on this thing, compared to movie pics, is absolutely DEAD-ON! I know that Anrev said that it is 5 lbs (I am not sure exactly), but it isn't too bad...For conventions though, I got a rifle strap from a army surplus store in Chicago ($4!!) and will be putting d-rings on the carbine so I can shoulder it when I get tired...I will post some pics in a couple days (or whenever it gets finished)...SO EXCITED!!!!
P.S. - for those of you who actually have one, imagine this: considering all the research and design that he put into it, and the quality that he actually makes them, imagine if HE made a version of the long rifle with this same setup (casted parts and PVC)...That would be fairly heavy (heavier) but VERY nice!
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Post by ianl on Jan 29, 2007 20:18:34 GMT -5
Did you get a set of directions with your kit? It went together very easily. Make sure you rinse all the resin parts in acetone before assembling, and sand and bondo any voids. I used plumbers goop to connect all the resin-to-resin and resin-to-pvc parts. I guarantee those joints aren't coming apart.
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Post by pghfett on Jan 29, 2007 21:11:27 GMT -5
Thats one heck of a kit BTY - excellent work by those guys !!!
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Post by Deleted on Jan 29, 2007 21:21:24 GMT -5
Did you get a set of directions with your kit? It went together very easily. Make sure you rinse all the resin parts in acetone before assembling, and sand and bondo any voids. I used plumbers goop to connect all the resin-to-resin and resin-to-pvc parts. I guarantee those joints aren't coming apart. Yes, it came with directions (which is good)...Like you said, it goes together easily, but there are bunch of SMALL parts that I am not sure would have gone on just right or at least in the correct place without the instructions. By the way, which brand makes the plumber's goop? I might have to get some... Also, I just wrote him (PA) and asked him about it, but he usually takes a day or two to write back and I REALLY can't wait to start assembling it, so I will ask you guys (who know or who have built one already): On his "materials needed" list he lists bondo AND glazing putty/spot filler. What is the difference between the two? And do I need both for this project? (I didn't read through the WHOLE tutorial/directions yet, so I might have missed it, but I still would like anyone/everyone else's opinion on this one)...
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Post by pghfett on Jan 29, 2007 21:29:49 GMT -5
Bondo is used for HEAVY filling - Gap filling and large swaths of area coverage. glazing and spot putty is used for small dings and dents after sanding that can be seen prior to laying a primer coat. If you look closely at my BARC back plate I'm making you can actually see the Green patches under the primer - thats spot putty or glazing putty where small dents and dings were seen.
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Post by ianl on Jan 29, 2007 21:40:41 GMT -5
It depends on the pull of the resin pieces. Mine were very clean, and only the barrel end of the receiver/grip needed bondo. Spot putty is only for the smallest nicks/voids, anything bigger will need bondo. GOOP is the name brand, Walmart and Home Depot sell it. Get the plumber's kind cuz it's formulated to bond to plastics. Don't rush with it, let it set up overnight. The small pieces are probably the greeblies that go on the side of the barrel.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 29, 2007 22:25:54 GMT -5
the pull on mine is pretty clean...The ONLY area that has a few bubbles is the front of the main body piece (with grip) and it is right where the PVC attaches to..Right AROUND that piece...But they are pretty small...So should I use the filler putty for that, or bondo for that, sand it down and THEN use the filler putty (if needed)?
Also, does bondo have an experation date or is it pretty much good until it's gone?
IanL, I know now that that is where the small pieces go (yes on the side of the PVC barrel) and had I really looked into it, I probably would have figured it out on my own, but I was just saying that I was not expecting PA to send a tutorial/instructions with the kit and that I was pleasantly surprised at that...
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Post by Anrev on Jan 30, 2007 5:05:10 GMT -5
I used bondo on the air bubble voids on mine and it didnt stick very well. I'm going to get some spot putty and try that.
You can also use the plastic weld glue by Devcon (from Walmart). It is my favorite glue. Bonds most types of plastic (and metal) great.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 30, 2007 6:52:01 GMT -5
plastic weld for filling air bubbles or instead of super glue?
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Post by ianl on Jan 30, 2007 8:18:04 GMT -5
I think Bret is suggesting using the plastic weld to glue the pieces together, not as a filler.
I've found spot putty doesn't hold up except in the tiniest of hairline voids. There are other products (3M makes a green filler that works better than Bondo's stuff) to try. I'm also not a fan of plastic welder. Maybe it's because I suck at mixing 2-part epoxies together, but my plastic welded stuff never stays together.
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Post by Anrev on Jan 30, 2007 16:26:46 GMT -5
You must be using a different plastic weld. The stuff you get at Walmart is the same stuff I use on airplanes at work.
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Post by pghfett on Jan 30, 2007 17:42:54 GMT -5
I use a special putty that is specifically used for model building that is designed to fill small voids / scratches. It is commonly called "green" putty or sqaudron putty in the model community. Here is what it looks like. www.modelsforsale.com/listphotos/SQ9050.jpg
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Post by ianl on Jan 30, 2007 20:43:06 GMT -5
You must be using a different plastic weld. The stuff you get at Walmart is the same stuff I use on airplanes at work. The one I'm thinking of comes in a 2-part "syringe" and is sold in the glue/hardware section. Is there different plastic welder.
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Post by pghfett on Jan 30, 2007 22:18:48 GMT -5
If it's in a two part syringe it's prpbably epoxy your looking at.
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Post by admin on Jan 30, 2007 22:48:34 GMT -5
Devcon (DevcoM?) does make a two-part syringe plastic welder. It's a very awesome hold, but it's a vomit-inducer. I recommend using the wind to your advantage if you use this stuff.
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